(1894) Sailing to China

Leaving London

Soon Johan Alfred and Hedvig's language studies were finished in London and they prepared to leave for China. It was a short stay, only a little over three months. It was not a long enough time to make many new friends, but the friends they did make would stay in their memories for a long time. Johan Alfred writes to those back home in Sweden:

We are soon leaving here. We are about at the last hour and are ready to leave. I know that everything has to be ready for the trip. We are happy that we are continuing to China. We are thankful to God and to the [missionary] committee that we are able to be here. This will be to [some translation missing here] off in the future. We look back at the time we spent in London . . . We will agree with the writer, "Goodness and mercy has followed us." Not one day of sickness have we had. Everything has gone well. God be the glory.

What was before them they did not know.

The future looks like a closed book. Everything in its deepest darkness, but we know that the book is in God's hands. The Lion of Judah will open the book. It will be an awesome day that it will be opened. We can say, "God, let your will be done." Committee and missionary friends in Sweden are hereby greeted. We will remember you in prayer. Pray that we will have a long and good grace??? that we will be in China. Yours in Christ, J.A. Rinell.

No doubt they sailed with some nervousness considering Hedvig's condition. If trouble should arise with Hedvig's pregnancy, a hospital and doctor would not be close.

On Friday, March 2, they made their way to Tilbury Docks A Google search for photos of Tilbury Docks during the 1890s did not turn up anything. LJH, June 2011. where their ship, the Victoria was docked. Mrs. Bond, whose home they stayed in when they first arrived in London, went to the docks with them. Their cabin was small and tight, but "it was a nice boat with a nice name" according to Hedvig. Hedvig Memoirs, page 14.

The ship lifted anchor at 3:30 PM on a beautiful sunny day and sailed toward the Straight of Dover and the English channel. Soon London and their new friends were seen far off. "God give us a happy journey," Johan Alfred writes. Their ship, the Victoria, became their floating home. On board were about 200 people including some missionaries.

In the missionary group was the Scot D. Kay and his family, an unmarried Germany lady by the name of Kesmann [Kumm?], a Scottish lady by the name of Bessie C. Maclay, a former pharmacist Hugo Linder from the Swedish town of Lönköping, Miss Hållts presumably Swedish, who had studied English for nine months as was pretty good at it, and Johan Alfred and Hedvig's co-worker Anna Holtz. Mr. Kay and family had been in China before. Miss Maclay was staying in Singapore. Miss Kesmann (sp?) was on her wasy to China. Hugo Linder belonged to the Swedish branch of the China Inland Mission. Johan Alfred and Hedvig were the only baptists. It was pleasant having these fellow missionaries on board and being able to call them their friends. Traveling to a foreign country would not be so wrenching an experience having fellow missionaries and fellow Europeans with them.

In the morning they woke up with the Victoria laying still in the water off France [?]. Dense fog enveloped the ship, and the captain not wanting to run aground, stopped the ship until the fog lifted. The fog dissipated at about noon, the anchor was pulled in, and they were on their way. By evening they were seasick.

Gibraltar

On March 4 the ship rolled from side to side in a strong wind. Many of those who were not seasick before now joined their comrades in their wish for terra firma. Hedvig too was sick. Rather than staying below decks, she sat on a deck chair the whole day breathing in fresh air and feeling secure (or perhaps telling herself she was secure) "in the Lord's arms" and need not worry about the ship's travels through the rough seas. The next day, the seas were calming and Hedvig and other passengers felt better though weak. March 6 brought beautiful weather as the ship sailed south off the coast of Portugal. The passengers looked forward to seeing Gibraltar that afternoon, but due to headwinds, they do not arrive at the Straight of Gibraltar until 9:00 PM. By that time it was too dark to see anything except the shadows of the mountains across from Gibraltar and the outline of the British fort perched like a stone nest on Gibraltar's rocky side.

The proud Victoria gave an audible salute, but no one seemed to pay much attention except a few small boats nearby. The crew of these small boats were a flurry of activity like crabs on the beach scurrying for a single bit of food as they competed with each other for the baggage of passengers disembarking. "People are the same everywhere when it comes to making money," Johan Alfred comments.

To Johan Alfred it's a fantasy to be standing between two worlds, Europe on one side and Africa on the other. It was a sight even an artist would find difficult to paint. He had dreamt of this moment for a long time and now he was experiencing it. With binoculars he could see the majestic snow covered mountains standing on both sides of the Straight.

Johan Alfred's thoughts returned to his homeland, now so far away.

Oh you proud Europe which even has given my proud homeland a tiny piece of your 'mantel' and the King of Peace could cover you with His wings and turn you from sin and untruth from your boundaries. God bless the Northern Land.

And he looks toward Africa.

You black country where I at one time thought I would work and perhaps die, what shall I say about you. My black brother, God has sent me to another land, perhaps because he wants to send someone better to you. I will now keep that one and you in my arms of prayer so that the salvation of God will clean Africa's black brothers and their hearts will shine whiter than snow . . . Lord your right hand can change everything. Turn Africa around and its people so that they will flower like His _______ garden.

Passing through the Straight of Gibraltar they continued their journey East into the Mediterranean Sea.

Hedvig's thoughts focused to the south. "Proud Europe, which hides a small corner of their native country in its cloak," as Hedvig wrote, was lost sight of. Africa."The black part of the world," where they once hoped to live and work as missionaries, was still on the horizon. Africa was still on Hedvig's heart:

The European land is missing from sight. [We] see instead the African. Can't see anything there . . . but snow-crowned mountaintops. Many strange thoughts crisscross one's heart with the insight of this spiritually dark land. O Lord, send the Word soon. We thank you for the witness already there, but we pray that you may send more; send me. Oh what a privilege to go out as a missionary. Am I really worthy of something like this, something so great? God make me ready, fill me with your spirit and your wisdom.

At 8:00 that evening just as Johan Alfred was putting down his pen and his journal, Mrs. Kay's seven year old came screaming with tears in his eyes. "I have lost baby!" He and his five year old sister had been given the job of watching their two year old brother, but had lost him. This put parents and everyone else into a panic. It was a big ship and a big sea. All joined in the search. The child was found on board and unhurt, and was gathered up into the parent's arms. Everyone was elated. This incident brought to Johan Alfred's mind how people are lost in sin until the Lord goes out to find them and takes them into His arms, and as the Bible says, "just as happiness is celebrated in heaven even when one sinner comes to Christ."

The next day brought good weather. Clear blue swells rolled beneath them as they left the Spanish and Moroccan coast with its white topped mountains.

Malta

In the evening of March 9 the ship arrived on the small island of Malta, between Sicily and the African coast, where Paul almost 2000 years before was shipwrecked while on his way to Rome. A flurry of small craft again came up to the ship just as they had done in Gibraltar. It was both funny and embarrassing to Johan Alfred to see all those boats competing to take them to shore. Hedvig decided to remain on board. When Johan Alfred and the others got to shore they faced the typical tourist dilemma of not knowing how much to pay. That problem sorted out they they ventured into the gas-lighted streets to see in the history town "things that were worth seeing." They returned late and tired and "with luck" to the Victoria, but in good spirits and with a large number of oranges. That night's rest was more wonderful than any he had experienced before.

The ship sailed the next morning, Saturday, at 6:00 heading north and the sea remained thankfully calm. In fact was is the best crossing the ship has made in its last sixteen trips the crew said. Later in the day they pass to the east of Sicily. Through binoculars Johan Alfred and Hedvig could see the snow covered but steaming top of Mt. Etna. "Fire spouting" Mt. Etna Hedvig called it with a column of steam rising from its peak. The breathtaking sight was just as their Swedish books back home had described it. So much they had already seen, so much interesting and fun things yet to see. The time was flying since they left London.

Johan Alfred and Hedvig made new friends on board, and among them two baptists, also on their way to China to join in the Lord's work. The missionaries started a prayer group on board, and new people have joined their Bible studies. But there was some opposition on board to these religious gatherings. Johan Alfred writes, "the enemies are not unoccupied and and their number of people on board is large. Oh God, save some of them."

Brindisi

On Sunday, March 11 the ship arrived in Brindisi on the heel of Italy. Although it was Sunday the people were working and the market was full of sellers and buyers. Very few people were in church, only about a dozen women. If the number of chairs indicated anything, they did not expect a lot of people. (But then this was a Catholic church in Italy where the people usually stand I believe. LJH). Johan Alfred, Hedvig and others stayed and watched. The "service" seemed to be as short as possible and empty without much depth. Showing his reformation roots Johan Alfred said to himself, "God will have to help those poor Catholics!" Hedvig was not too impressed with the prayers of the Italian women which seemed more like ramblings of poor people handcuffed to their religion.

Next they visited a hospital where the patients seemed to be treated well enough though a crucifix and candles had to have their place of honor.

Hedvig was not impressed. The town was neither large nor pretty. They went a short distance outside of town where they found a bit of green where they could sit down and sing hymns and have a devotional time. A large group of people gathered around them. They really looked interested and Johan Alfred thought at first that they were interested in spiritual things. This was not the case. They later found out that the crowd was more interested in these foreigners singing than in what they had to sing about. They could not say anything about God "because our language was not theirs" as Hedvig put it. They did hand out religious tracks, however, which the people appreciated taking.

They had mail waiting for them: one from London and two from Sweden. Hedvig's father was now better, and Hedvig prayed that soon he would be completely well and the Lord would save him as well as the rest of her family, and commit themselves, heart and soul, to the heavenly Father.

In the evening an English minister gave the message. The main points of his sermon were to look at the big _________, look upward for strength, look forward toward your goal. This was a good message for those starting out on the missionary journey. Later Johan Alfred and Hedvig's traveling companions rescued ___________ from drowning.

The party of missionary tourists returned to the ship that evening and went to bed tired from the day's activities. On Monday evening they sailed from Brindisi not knowing if they will ever see this part of the world again. But they felt secure and happy that all was in God's hands. The sea was calm and unusually blue as they sailed south for Egypt.

Though the seas were calm, the weather was not calm on board. Some or many of the other passengers on board were not religious. No one thought there would be an open confrontation. But some were opening speaking against Christianity and Jesus. Now some passengers, most notably the card players it seemed, were irritated with the Sunday service held in the salon on board. Of course, the salon is where the card players would be getting together to play and hand or two or more, and it was darn frustrating to have these Christians praying and singing. The card players wanted them out of their sight. It probably did not help the fact that some of the Christians at least would have frowned upon card playing also. So as not to cause friction, the Christians were ordered not to sing any longer in the salon, and they were forbidden to hold Bible studies. The Christians though continued on with their devotions more privately in a new meeting place. Reverend R. B. de Wolf from the English high church on his way to a mission station in Australia lead the devotions. de Wolf being warm hearted and with a positive attitude was well liked by the Christians. He was glad, he said, that the name of Jesus even came up as an issue. At least Jesus was a topic of discussion. Furthermore, the opposition the were going through as Christians on board could not be compared to what their forefathers in the faith went through in times past. All in all it was a positive experience.

That afternoon the ship arrive in Port Said.

Egypt

It was Wednesday, March 14, when they docked in Port Said at the mouth of the Suez Canal. Here was Egypt! With only two hours in Port Said they disembarked to take a look of one of Africa's cities and were surprised at how European it looked. What joy it was for Johan Alfred to have the land of Egypt under his feet. Despite the pleasure of soldid ground this was a busy port town, and it was evident that the town people were eager to make money off these tourists.

It was . . . a bit interesting to see the inhabitants. Most of them were Mohammedan. All eager to earn as much money as possible, so asking twice or three time the price for all their services???. One bargain though was a hat needle. "For us only "two pence" for a hat needle." Though experiencing for them a new a very different culture than their own, they did not seem compelled to experience as much as they could of Port Said. Rather their first stop was Strangers Rest, a seaman's home where a Mr. Lock was working. Next they visited another mission station were they met part of the mission staff, a Mr. Enore, who was, to their delight, a Swede. He had left Stockholm thirty-two years earlier in 1861 and had been living in Port Said for seven years. He spoke several languages and was trying to convert the Mohammedan people to Christianity. They spent time with him and his family at his home, but could only stay a short time. After a brief prayer meeting they headed off, seeing a few noteworthy sights on the the way back to the ship. They boarded the Victoria at about 7:00 in the evening. Soon the ship eased out of the harbor and headed south down the Suez Canal.

They sailed through the night and into the next day, Thursday, March 15. The journey down the canal to the Red Sea took about 16 hours, traveling at a slow pace. The canal is not wide except in a few places at Lake Timsah and the Great Bitter Lake. The shore on both sides were of sand. The bleakness was of the barren land was large. Johan Alfred likened the canal to Klarälfven. They passed small towns a villages in some places. Dark skinned children, almost black in color, ran along with the ship yelling "baksheesh" as loud as they could, encouraging the passengers to throw money. Some passengers on board deck threw them money while others threw oranges. The children of course preferred the money. "The Lord helps even them and their souls," Hedvig thinks to herself. "Even stronger do I seem to hear the Lord calling for missionaries when I see their coal-black faces."

As they traveled south the air became much warmer, but a wind eased the intense heat. Clear blue skies overhead, more sand and now barren, rocky mountains. But it was the "same, same sight" as Johan Alfred described it. Openness, bareness, nothingness. The landscape was monotonous, but some excitement on board broke the monotony. Among the passengers was an English artist who was of course interested in sketching and taking notes of what he saw. Without anyone knowing what he was doing he climbed up into the ship's rigging for a better perspective. The black crew spotted him and pursued him like a swarm of bees. They grabbed him, hauled him down and bound him hand and feet with a rope and a handkerchief. The passengers laughed and applauded the while the "prisoner" worked to free himself. He got loose, but a crewman came running, breathlessly, with more rope and bound him still tighter, challenging him, "See if you can get out!" The crew then demanded money for his release. The passengers now started to realize what was going on. Passengers are not allowed to climb up into the ship's rigging where only the crewmen are allowed to climb. Custom dictated that a passenger who did so could be accosted and made to pay a penalty which would not doubt go to the crewmen. The artist's fellow passengers offered to pay 10 shillings for the unlucky man's release, but of course that was not enough. The prisoner it seems was starting to get angry over the whole thing. The black crewmen who had take the artist 'prisoner' now became a little scared about the whole incident. They simply let him go without further demanding a fee for his release.

Continuing their slow progression southward they reached the Red Sea later in the day. On the beach near the entrance of the canal is a large brown-grey-red mountain. Nearby where otherwise only sandstone and sand predominated was as an oasis with palm trees and arab shacks and irrigation canals. "That's where Moses' Well is supposed to be!," Johan Alfred exclaimed with excitement mixed with disappointment. So near and yet so far. Their non-tiring steam ship was not to stop here. Even if they would go ashore, there was no transportation they were told. Johan Alfred, Hedvig and the other passengers had to settle for seeing this historic spot if that what it was, with binoculars.

A little later they passed the spot where Moses and the Israelites crossed the Red Sea on dry land or at least this was where one tradition claimed that biblical event happened. As far as Johan Alfred knew this was the place. His excitement knew no bounds.

We passed the place where the Red Sea parted, which by God's bountiful grace, it parted and let the crowds of Israelites through. What a Bible-loving and travel-memories this rose up when we saw the holy history in how God through his strong and might arm guided His people through walks and paths that never had been tread before to the land that He had made ready for them. For my own sake the story has come alive in my mind as our Lord said to Moses, "Speak to the children of Israel that they go forward" and "The Lord shall fight for you and ye shall hold your peace." This has rung in my ears as if it was spoken directly to me.

Seeing where God parted the Red Sea for his people gave confidence to Johan Alfred to face whatever was before him in the strange land of China. If God was with the Israelites, certainly He would be with himself and Hedvig since He had told them to go forward from Sweden to China just as God had told the Israelites to go forward from Egypt to the promised land.

Now the long long journey down the length of the Red Sea was before them. The waters widened. No longer was the land hugging the ship on both sides. Saturday they were sailing southeast toward the Gulf of Aden. The journey was going well with no problems. They had everything the needed and felt secure that God was taking care of them.

The next day, the 18th, was Sunday. "Out of habit we should go to church," Johan Alfred writes. The service was in Salon No. 1 at 11:00 AM. They did not know why the Christians were permitted to meet publicly again. Johan Alfred was reluctant to go. "Even though I am not too much for this, I'll go anyway. Reverend de Wolf spoke and did fairly well with his sermon. He talked of the trip they all take on life's ocean and that on this trip it is imperative to have a captain to guide the ship along the way, and to study and follow the map in order to chart out one's course in life. Of course the captain in life is God, and the map for one's life is the Bible. Everyone agreed to the truth that was said."

By Monday March 19th they had crossed the Red Sea. Like the Israelites before them they wanted to say, "I want to sing about God because he is high and mighty." The ship docked in the small port of Aden. Hedvig, Johan Alfred and the other missionaries had been traveling since March 2 and they were not even half way to their destination.

To be able to say that they had set foot on Arabic soil, they went ashore.

Aden

Aden was a small town. Besides the small town there was not much to see except a mountain in the distance and sand dunes. To kill a little time they went to the post office, the Catholic church and some small stores, the later in order to see the people and experience a little of their culture. Johan Alfred thought of H.M. Stanley's description of the black half-naked Arabic slave hunters in the Congo. These people he saw in Aden did not look much different than the description in Stanley's writings. The excitement of Aden ended there with the people's similarities to the slave traders in Africa. And it did not seem like an interesting life for the residents. "Friends and ships seem to be the only thing the Arab boys had to do." In regards to the latter some boys were successful at encouraging passengers to throw coins overboard which these "sea animals" would retrieve in a split second. Oranges were more expensive. At other harbors in their travels they could buy four oranges for a penny. Here it was only one orange for a penny.

Though Aden did not have much to offer it was interesting to these Swedes that this part of the world did not experienced a real winter, but stayed relatively warm all year round. This was not like Sweden where winters were always cold and often harsh. This was a different life that was hard to imagine.

In a few hours, the passengers boarded the ship. Those who were bound for Indian remained behind to board another ship. Johan Alfred and Hedvig would have to change ships in Colombo, Ceylon, their next stop. Back onboard, the Victoria set sail again into the vastness of the Indian Ocean. That thought was a little intimidating for Hedvig. "Now we have the Indian Ocean ahead of us. The Lord is on our side. Why should we be afraid?"

March 23 was Good Friday, but not a good Friday like they knew in Sweden. With a ban again on open religious meetings no service was held celebrating the day. Homesick, Hedvig wrote a letter to her family in Sweden.

Johan Alfred thought about the significance of the day for him as a Christian. "Unless its Golgatha, there is no place for me more precious than Gethsamane." Good Friday was the anniversary of the day Jesus was crucified on the hill Golgatha in Jerusalem. His death was meaningful to Christians because it meant that a person's sins would be forgiven if they repented and believed in Jesus' message and the significance of his death. Gethsamane was the place where Jesus came back to life and physically got up and left his tomb. This event three days after Jesus death proved to the Christians what Jesus said about himself was true. It also told the Christians that death was not the final act, that there would eventually be life after death. This was why he and Hedvig were going to China, to tell the people that death no longer is the final event that if they turned to God as they themselves had done in Sweden. Believing in Jesus they too could live again. It was an important message to communicate to those who did not know.

The significance of this day, Good Friday, and Easter on Sunday [bore down] on Johan Alfred.

Golgatha, the theatrical place for my "it is finished" and [the] victory of my war . . . In the shadow of your cross, I want to live -- there also I want to die . . . Grave and death, why do you trail with your hungering jaw . . . . Don't you know when you have been won? Oh praise my heart, death is eaten up by victory. 'You death where is your sting, you death where is your victory?'

Colombo

For the next two days they sailed the Indian Ocean and on Easter Sunday, March 25 arrived in Colombo, Ceylon at 8:00 in the morning. It felt strange to be away from family and friends on resurrection day, an important day in the Swedish calendar. After breakfast on board ship they went ashore. "Arrived [to] thousands of flowers and trees [and] fragrance. What beautiful scenery. Who can describe its beauty? The lost paradise has been returned. No, the sin is still here. [This is] not a paradise on earth." The beauty of the island impressed them. Instead of walking about the town they hired transportation.

We took us a "walk in a wagon" to see this town's beautiful things. Instead of being pulled by horse drawn carriages we were drawn by people. These ran just as energetic as the horses.

As they had done before, they made a point of visiting the local mission in this case a pastor, who "was happy as a Salvation Army captain" who worked among the people of Ceylon.

By 4:30 it was time to board their new ship, the Surat. This ship was a bit of a disappointment. It was older, smaller and less stately than the Victoria. Besides they had grown fond of the the Victoria. It had become their home. "Farewell Victoria. Farewell, Farewell! Thank you for everything." The small size of the Surat bobbing on the large sea they have yet to cross concerned Hedvig, "[We] hope it will be well [and that the ship] rolls pretty slowly is something one probably shouldn't worry too much about!". Their cabin was larger which helped a lot.

The rest of the journey went well despite Hedvig's concerns. A good breeze blew so that the heat on these southern seas was not too pressing. And most of their fellow second class passengers were missionaries. Johan Alfred and Hedvig felt right at home. To add to their blessing they got the promise of the captain that they could have their daily Bible readings, songs and prayers. "God [can change] anything. My soul, praise the Lord.

April 1 brought and new day and a new month, and on April 2 they had been traveling now for an entire month. Their goal was getting much closer and they could feel it.

They sailed by Sumatra and were approaching Singapore. Since some of the missionaries would be leaving the party in Singapore, someone decided it would be appropriate and meaningful to hold communion. Communion celebrates the last meal that Jesus had with his disciples before he was crucified on Golgotha. For Christians it is both a reminder of Jesus and what he did for them in taking away their sins, but is also a meaningful time when Christians meet together to share their common bond.

Johan Alfred and Hedvig naturally assumed that they would be joining their fellow missionaries in "the breaking of bread" as it was called. Surprisingly they were told that they could not join the group of missionaries in this common event because they were baptist. The breaking of the bread was held without them. Thankfully Johan Alfred and Hedvig could see in the faces of some of the missionaries that they did not agree to excluding them and felt terribly about it. It was quite a shock for Johan Alfred and Hedvig though. Whereas they did not even think about sharing communion with non-baptists on board, other missionaries thought it was good an proper to excluded them. Johan Alfred and Hedvig took consolation in the fact that even out on the high seas they could stand for their convictions even if it was with fellow Christians and even worse, fellow missionaries.

Singapore

Singapore was soon in sight. The entrance to the harbor was beautiful. The Swedes on board asked each other if they were back in Sweden. It looked so much like their homeland, especially the area of Mälaren.

Docking in Singapore and disembarking they saw bustling nearly naked Chinese workers, probably dock hands. Johan Alfred at the least was amazed. The Chinese were not as ugly as he thought they might be and some where even handsome. This may be some indication has to just how few Chinese there were in Sweden at this time. Johan Alfred asked God to help these unhappy people.

As they had done in Port Said, Egypt, they visited the home of a missionary, a Mr. Kay. He arranged for the missionaries to talk with a local couple. Johan Alfred and Hedvig asked them about people in Singapore knowing about the Jesus. Their reply was, "No one has been in our town to tell us about Jesus. Our people know nothing about the Jesus religion. . . . Couldn't you come and teach us so that we also could take part in your joy and then go to heaven when we die." This of course moved Johan Alfred and Hedvig. They later prayed that God would waken the Christian world to come and teach the people.

Hong Kong

They arrived in Hong Kong on April 8, their first experience with China. They went ashore and were invited to attend an English church service in a Methodist church. Johan Alfred and Hedvig were sitting in the small congregation listening to a rather good service they thought, when they heard the shot-like blasts of sounds from exploding fire crackers just outside the church doors. This was there first real introduction to the religion of China. After the church service they found out the fire crackers were set of to scare away evil spirits near a tree which the local people prayed to for certain illnesses and to which they gave thanks and appreciation after they were healed. Johan Alfred and Hedvig then talked with some of the people in the church congregation, who were nice people, and who wished them well on this new chapter of their lives. Later in the day they saw they tree near some plain stone steps. Prayer papers hung from its branches. Fluttering in the breeze these prayer papers would continuously send prayers toward heaven.

Arrival in Shanghai

They soon boarded the ship again and sailed north along the China coast, arriving in Shanghai Thursday evening, April 12, 1894. They had been traveling the seas of the world for one month and ten days. As the ship sailed into the harbor cannon fire thundered one round after the other saluting the ship's arrival.1

They disembarked. It felt good to have solid ground under them once again. Waiting to meet them were the president of the Missionary Home, brother E. G. Evans and a Norwegian Christian worker, L. Kristensen. Evans invited Johan Alfred and Hedvig were to stay in Evans' home where they were able to get a few days rest.2 Their new 'landlord', possibly Evans, mentioned that they were probably going to a new field in west China, at least initially.That night Hedvig lay awake worrying that they were going to east China, something they apparently did not expect. [Laying awake and worrying' really didn't help much, but we do it anyway. Hedvig Memomoir, page 15.

The [next] day they went shopping for some of those things they would need as they started thier life in China. Brother Kristensen was especially helpful to them even though a few days earlier his mission station had been ruined by a mob riot and had all his clothes stolen.

On April 14 they witnessed "heathen" worship first hand. They had of course known about it for many years, but to witness it was different, and appeared to them to be an ugly thing. They were in a big and expensive temple. The many worshippers bowed to the various gods placed here and there in the temple. The worshippers acted with humbleness and excitement before their gods. And they gave the gods money. "What a sacrifice and throwing away of money, all without any cause," Johan Alfred wrote. "Lord, when will they give sacrificially and be humble to you who has made heaven and earth?!" 3

Standing in the temple seeing them humbly and sacrificially giving of their souls and giving of their all I could not but think of ourselves. How is it with us? Don't we often get embarrassed to verify Christ Jesus in our lives in Christ's name? Aren't we all together too indifferent, cold and unwilling when it comes to serve our Christ . . . . Wouldn't we rather hold back when we instead should let prayers of thanksgiving go up as a 'pillar of smoke' to our Father's throne as the heathens incense bellows up to the heathen god's altar. We Christians need to learn more how to love, believe and pray and in general practice as the heathens do. God help us!4

The following day [possibly Sunday, April 15] Johan Alfred's old classmate, friend and future co-worker on the mission field, J.E. Lindberg arrived in Shanghai and welcomed them to China.5 He had been in China now for two years the Swedish Baptist Mission in China having started in 1891. Information from Lally Rinell. Lindberg told them they would need to pack fast because they needed to catch a ship for the port of Chefoo. Hedvig question Lindberg if they were paying for a cheap "Chinese fare" ticket. "Yes, "said Lindberg, "that should be no prolbem. For Hedvig it was a problem. "He could of course not understand how I felt," Hedvig writes. After a long journey by ship from England, and now in a unfamiliear foreign land, she needed a little comfort.

First though, Johan Alfred and J.E. went off to church together. Tired, Hedvig remained behind and writes, putting the best face on things,

How wonderful the harbor is when the trip has been long. Oh, how sweet life's harbor is going to be at the end of life's ocean. O dear God help me to be faithful during the road. Let me be in this land a testimony [???] and not withdraw from any of life's battles . . . Our future and our new work is still surrounded by darkness. But we are calm because we know our Father has taken care of everything for us. My God shall supply all our needs according to his riches in Glory by Christ Jesus.7

In Lindberg's company on Sunday April 22 the Rinells sailed on a steamer further north along the China coast and around the peninsula of Shantung to the coastal town of Chefoo. The missionaries dressed in Chinese clothes with the men sporting false braided pigtails sewn to their hats. Hedvig wished that Johan Alfred has started growing his hair long while in London, so that she could braid his hair rather than wearing a false length of braided hair. They tried to be "Chinese among Chinese." They traveled cheaply sharing the crowded space in the bowels of the ship with Chinese travelers. The smoke of opium pipes and the smell of closed-in-humanity was continuous, a memory impossible to forget. Hedvig speaks of two females down in the ship. Perhaps Mrs. Lindberg was traveling with them? Was Lindberg married at this time?They tried for the first time to use chopsticks. Though not easy they did manage to eat, and the weather was good so they were not seasick.

On Sunday, April 22 [check dates. do no think one can reach Chefoo from Shangahi in one day. Perhaps they left on the 15th and arrived a week later on the 22nd] they reached the port of Chefoo, but stayed only two days. The Southern Baptist missionaries in Teng Chow-fu kindly invited them to be their guests for the summer. Laying about eight Swedish miles (80 kilometers?) north of Chefoo it took two days to get to this interior town. The ladies9 rode each a "Shen-tse",10 a large basket suspended by a mule in front and one behind. Each of the men rode a mule.

Dr. J. B. Hartwell, an American Baptist, and other missionaries did their best to make these new missionaries feel that they were 'home'. Also in Teng Chow-fu were the Presbyterians under the leadership of Dr. Matheer. Both of the missions had churches and rather large church memberships. What is more, all the missionaries got along well together and had a English [language?] service and prayer meetings together once a week though in their mission work among the Chinese though they worked separately.

Swedish Baptist Mission in China

Johan Alfred and Hedvig were to be the Mission's first missionary family though a few other Swedes had gone before. Karl Vingren who they met in London had been dedicated to missionary work on Tuesday, September 23, 1890 at Bethel Church in Stockholm. The next day he left for England to study English just as Johan Alfred and Hedvig had just done. His ship landed in Shanghai on Friday, 21st of March 1891. He put on Chinese clothes, and a false 'pigtail'. Chinese men grew their hair long, braided it, and wore it down their backs. Karl wanted to fit in, and so sported a pigtail also. After language study at the China Inland Mission Training Home for Men in Ganking, he traveled through the provinces of Anhui, Kiangsi and Chekiang looking for the right place to start work.

In January of 1892 he left for Shantung, China's holy province. The Southern Baptist Mission from America in Tengchoufu welcomed Karl, and encouraged him to stay in their area and set up his mission. He decided this was the right thing to do. He traveled to the town of Kiaochow, later to be named Kiaohsien, on October 27, 1892 and stayed in an inn. In this town he decided to stay and begin the Swedish Baptist Mission. He rented a former brother because buying or renting anything was difficult because the Chinese at this time were suspicious of foreigners. With a roof over his head he began his work.

Kiaochow was a bit inland from the coast in the province of Shantung, 300 kilometers southwest of Chefoo Now known as 'Yantai', apparently. and 70 kilometers west of the coastal fishing village of Tsingtao. The town at the time had 50,000 inhabitants, and the district 365,576 residents in 1,282 villages and towns. Beyond this area was Gaomi to the west, Chucheng to the southwest and Ih-chao. Plenty of Christian work could be done here.

J.E. Lindberg left China to join Vingren and arrived in Shanghai March 15, 1892 where Karl journeyed to welcome him. They worked together for the next several months and dedicated the mission's first mission station on March 16, 1893. Vingren's health was weakened during his time in China and he felt compelled to return to Sweden leaving the work that he had started. It was on his return to Sweden via England that he met fellow students at Bethel Seminary 10B Johan Alfred and Hedvig Rinell, and a single woman, Anna Holtz. 10C

Celebration

Sunday May 6 was a time of celebration for the missionaries in the baptist church, the Chinese Christians and not least of all Johan Alfred and Hedvig. Four Chinese Christians, one man and three women were to be baptized. The meeting was held in the chapel. Many testimonies were given describing what God had done for them. Johan Alfred and Hedvig could not understand the Chinese so some of what was said was translated for them. They could, however, understand the smiles and facial expressions of the Chinese Christians giving their testimony. Among Christians there was not need to translate this.

After the testimonies the four were baptized. Afterwards they all celebrated together the Lord's supper or communion. Presbyterians, American Baptists, Swedish Baptists, Chinese, Swedes and Americans all enjoying a celebration together as brothers and sisters of one family. It was a joyful and altogether enjoyable event. Johan Alfred said this one event was payment enough for their long trip to China. Hedvig writes, "May we one time also be with Jesus at his wedding table at home when all wars have ended. Thank you God that you brought me here. Help me to be faithful in my work. China is my land and its people my people."13

Pentecost

Whitsuntide or Pentecost the 'soul search' time of the year had come.14 This was the 7th Sunday after Easter commemorating the descent of the Holy Spirit on the apostles in first century Palestine. This was Johan Alfred and Hedvig's first Holy Week in China.

A wonder that we are here. Is this true? Yes. Thank you God it is true. We are here on 'your word' willing to do your errands, happy to belong to you and serve you here in the heathendom, sin and darkness filled land.15

A Beginning

In the early morning of Tuesday, May 15, 1894 an earthquake shook the walls, the floors and the furniture putting everyone in a somber and frightened mood. By 8:00 A.M. Hedvig gave birth to their first born. "God gave us a small, cute, nice son. Everything went well and I'm fairly well. Praise be to God."16 They name him Egron Gösta. If his first name is turned around it is Norge, which is the Swedish and Norwegian name for Norway where Johan Alfred started his first church. When the news got out all the foreign missionaries and the Chinese hurried to the Rinells to offer their congratulations and to "honor or little world citizen, and all flattered his parents by saying in unison that he was a 'ding-how di baby.'"17 Many of the foreigners gave Hedvig and Johan Alfred a helping hand showing them their love and support. They felt well cared for. "God help us to raise the little one that God has lent us so that the little darling boy will be raised after God's will."18

On June 12 Hedvig experienced severe pain in her leg, which she experienced into July.Was this pain mentioned in July of the previous year? LJH< She felt that God sends these trials and only he knows the reason for them. Perhaps it is to train her in some way to be more patient and happy she reasons.

Letter from Home

Letters from the Fatherland were always sparse but when they came they usually brought good and uplifting news. On July 25 a letter came from Sweden. Its edges were black. Someone had died. Hedvig's and Johan Alfred's hearts sank when they saw it. They opened the letter.

It was Hedvig's father who had died. He was only fifty-nine years of age. It was a hard blow. He had died on May 22, only a week after the birth of Egron, but it had taken over two months to receive the letter. He had been ill before they had left England for China. For several months he was many times between life an death, sometimes getting better and then worse again. But he had always gotten better. Hedvig, feeling the loss and wondering why God would allow this to happen writes,

This happening will always be on my heart and how much would I have wanted to be present. God forbid that I . . .doubt your words. The big day will show me that our prayers were answered. My poor mother and my little sister. These probably feel the burden heavy. O God, be their comforter and their heart's friend. If I don't see any one of mine here on earth let me meet them with you dear Jesus.19

Hedvig was also worried that her father was not truly a Christian. If he was not, she would not see him ever again for he would not in heaven when she herself died. Johan Alfred could see the pain that Hedvig was experiencing and knew that he could not comfort her completely. "Only God is powerful enough to comfort and fill the empty space." writes Johan Alfred. 20

Fellow missionaries Mr. and Mrs. Mateers21 thinking that mother and son look sickly, invited them for a two week stay in their home in Teng Chow-fu.22 The stay does them good and Hedvig felt stronger. Mrs. Mateer leaves a "sweet memory" in Hedvig's heart.

Johan Alfred and Hedvig continued to study Chinese which was slowly coming. During the summer word arrived that war had broken out between China and Japan. This was far away though and of no concern.23

After a year their belongs were still in footlockers and crates. They were eager to set up a home of their own. The men started talking about their trip across Shantung province.

The hot summer weather abated and Johan Alfred, Hedvig and Anna Holtz began packing in big baskets [are these baskets slung from mules, and if so, were they packing their possessions or themselves considering traveling inside baskets on mules was a mode of transportation, apparently]. On August 28 the missionaries said good-bye to their friends in Teng Chow-fu to travel a four day journey to what will be their own town, Kiaochow.24 The other missionaries come to say good-bye and wish them best of luck on their journey, future work and home.

They had a new companion on this journey, little Egron. "Now I have a little friend to talk to during the four days," Hedvig writes. Hedvig Memoirs, page ?

Their mules carried them from early morning until late at night. That night they stayed at the American Southern Baptist mission station with a new missionary couple and their family in the town of Hwang-hsien.

Continuing the next day, following a narrow path for two days, they traveled through well cultivated land green with soy bean, and sweetpotato and other root crops, fields of wheat and opium [check translation, and determine if wheat and opium would have been ready to harvest at this time] over bare hills and mountain passes, and across riverbeds of sand. Any sliver of flat land was planted.They saw no forest, but they did see many villages and many people and then more people again. "They were the people we had come to with the beautiful message about Jesus."

On the forth day they arrived in Pingtu at the home of Mr. and Mrs. Sears, American Southern Baptist missionaries. The American Southern Baptists were of a lot of help to the Swedish Baptists when the later had first arrived previously in China in 1892. In fact the Swedes lived with these Americans from 1892 to 1894 in the cities of Tengchow and Pingtu. That they had completed this part of thier journey was a relief. Hedvig and little Egron were sick. Egron had diarreha due to food they had eaten on thier journey. Having diarreha, especially for a child, was serious. Many died of it.

Mrs. Sears was very pregnant. On September 7, about a week after thier arrival she gave birth to a baby girl and named her Mary. "Between two singless love started blossoming. A lot of romance can start . . . even in everyday life. What would missionaries do without love?" Hedvig Memoir, page ?.

While Hedvig, Egron and Anna Holtz they stayed with the Sears The Sears family were to become good friends of the Rinells. Johan Alfred and Lindberg continued to Kiaochow so Johan Hedvig could make things liveable in their home to be.

First Home

They arrived late in the evening on September 3 in Kiaochow, and the next several days made repairs on the Rinell family's future home. With the home more or less ready Johan Alfred and Lindberg rode the six Swedish miles (60 kilometers) back to Pingtu 26to get his family. Miss Holtz would not be traveling with them, but choosing to stay in Pingtu to study English. 27 Lindberg had been their hands and tongue on their journey. But he would not be traveling with them on their return journey to Kiaochow. The idea of traveling through a strange country and not knowing the language was intimidating to say the least. Johan Alfred writes, "Before Lindberg had been our guiding hand, but we had to prove that we could do it ourselves."

Before leaving the Sears family and traveling on to Kioahsien, Lindberg, the Sears and the Rinells had a group photograph taken.

In a bit less that a week the Rinell family arrived "lucky and well" as Johan Alfred puts it in Kiaochow on September 28, 1894. On their arrival it seemed like the whole town, at least hundreds of people "with breath in their throats" meaning they were breathing hard or were out of breath, runnng to the foreigners, 28, gathered around the vehicle29 to see the foreign wonder and especially the little white foreign baby. All the people were very quiet and calm. The foreigners wondered if they would actually be welcome in the town of Kiaochow by the Chinese. Only time would tell. At the moment at least crowd even greeted them with a cheer. Hedvig writes, "Dear Father be with us here and help us with the work. Help us to shine here in this dark town."30

During their first weeks they worked to get their home together. Dollan writes of her grandfather that he probably did not do much to get the house together, "He was not 'housey' at all. A few books might have gone on the shelves, but farmor [grandmother] I am sure did the rest [and] with a brand new baby Egron ! ! ! (Note in translation of Johan Alfred's diary, on 08/31/08). Their new home was typically Chinese and far different from anything they had lived in in Sweden. The house was three small rooms with dirt floors. The doors were crudely made with projections above and below, like pins, serving as hinges. The windows were made of paper pasted to panes of wood. Much to Hedvig's delight they substituted the rice paper with panes of glass. She commented that the windows were "embellished with the glory of civilization".

The house had no fireplace to warm the rooms during the cold China winter. Instead the bed or k'ang made of mud bricks would be heated during the cold months by lighting a fire under it. Sleeping on the k'ang would be like sleeping on a Swedish tiled stove, but one that was placed horizontally on the floor rather than standing vertically in the corner of a home. For added warmth the fire under the cooking-boiler was also connected by flues to the k'ang in winter. The bed was hard. Hedvig wished they had ordered mattresses while in London. Bed quilts were piled at one end of the k'ang to pull up to warm the whole family at night during the colder months. Summer by contrast was extremely hot, which it was normal in this part of China, but also because their house was squeezed between high houses and walls which discourage any breezes happening by.

For furniture they had to make do. The town had no furniture stores. Furniture had to be individually ordered and handmade.31 Their furniture in the time being consisted of a borrowed table, two deck chairs used on the trip from London, and the shipping crates used to ship their personal belongings, turned upside down and covered with paper. The mission did supply them with a wood-burning stove, but it had one problem. Most of stove's smoke escaped into the room. The other two rooms did not have fireplaces and therefore no warmth.

Their new Chinese house certainly did not even meet the degree of humble homes they had lived in in Sweden. Hedvig was undaunted by its humbleness. A week after her arrival she writes,

We have now gotten our little home put together. It is simple and hopelessly cheap, but when peace and love are the constant guests we don't long for anything else.

Their little son now well, also brings joy to the the home. He is their "sweetheart and the home's little sunbeam."

On October 8 they celebrate their third wedding anniversary in their new home. "Thank you God for your goodness for our first two years. Help us to serve you better from now on [even more] than we have done before."32

This rented house would be their home for the next two years. Now that they were settled into their new home, it was time to get working in their new town and to learn the language.

Life in Kiaochow

Kiaochow was a large town when Johan Alfred and Hedvig arrived in 1894. In Kiaochow itself 50,000 crowded the town. The district of Kiaochow had 1282 villages with a population of 365,576. The following description of Kiaochow could also describe in large part the cities of Gaomi, Chucheng and Ih-chao. In these cities there was no missionary work. [Len: the following is a quote?]

The town of Kiaochow was surrounded by high double wall of bluish gray bricks. Stamped soil between the double walls provided additional strength.33 On top of the walls defenders were protected by the alternating tooth and gap of crenellated parapets. The four gates of the walled town were closed at night and opened early in the morning to protect the townspeople from bandits. About forty minutes walk from the Rinell's residence an inner town wall surrounded the residence of the District Magistrate and military officials. Within this walled compound was also the court, prison, and a large number of subordinates, yuamen runners, jailers, clerks, and the tax collector. Within his own county the Magistrate was the supreme official for anything having to do with the Chinese. Things having to do with foreigners such as permission for the missionaries to live within the magistrate's jurisdiction was subject to the extraterritoriality treaty.

Although possessor of supreme authority in his territory, the Magistrate was careful in all his official functions not to offend public opinion. His one aim was to serve his three years term of office with no disturbances in his district which would attract the attention of his superiors. He was responsible to the Prefect who was in charge of several districts and Governor who governed the whole province, and finally together with them to the Emperor, who reigned over the whole of China.

The main streets of the town were paved with slabs of stone, and arched with ornamental carved arches in honor of former distinguished inhabitants. Main streets were lined with shops with many types of merchandise, while on the pavement in the open air fortune-tellers, stone seal cutters, letter writers, traditional medicine sellers, and barbers, tried to interest the passerby. Narrow streets of the town were made of dirt and were shared by children, pigs and chickens. The home of the better-off town-dweller were built with gray bricks and graced with curved tile roofs. The poorer inhabitants lived in unbaked mud brick, thatched-roofed houses.

The Magistrate also governed the many villages in his district. Farmers did not have their homes on their plot of land, but for the sake of security gathered in villages. The landlords preferred to live in the town. Not many brick houses stood in the village. Small thatched houses were most common. An ordinary house was comprised of three small rooms. Sometimes one partition was removed leaving one large and one small room. The floor was dirt. There was no ceiling, just the underside of the roof. In this small space the family lived, cooked their meals and kept their numerous household articles. There may be a small window and always a folding door. Houses faced to the south as was the custom. If additional structures were needed they were placed at right angles to the main one, facing east and west. The small yard was surrounded by a mud wall with a gate. Here dogs, cats, chickens, and in summer naked children enjoyed themselves, and often took to the street for more space. The cultivated fields consisted of small plots separated by little earthen boundaries. The main crops were wheat, millet barley, soybean, corn, sweet potatoes, and peanuts. Villagers and farmers grew a variety of vegetables in their garden including cabbage, turnip, onions, garlic, radishes, cucumbers, and melons. There were many kinds of fruit trees, but no orchards. Villages had fixed days for open air markets, often different markets days depending upon the village.

Language Study

Johan Alfred and Hedvig were dressed like the Chinese 11 now it was time to begin learn how to speak like the Chinese. They found a language teacher from Pingtu. The dialect seemed to be somewhat different from the Teng-Chufu dialect, but it was soon forgotten. Johan Alfred writes,

My authentic Chinese teacher Mr. Kiang probably thought my tongue was made of tin and [was] disobeying and parroting his sounds in the Chinese language, but 'we are all like children in the beginning.' Hope it will be better in the future. 'It is no sense to give up,' said one of my schoolmates. God help!12

The missionary's first task after getting a roof over their heads is to learn a new language. Chinese is without doubt one of the hardest languages, especially during the early pioneer days when teaching aids were few. The reference works they did have was Ballers Mandarine Primer, Whitefield's phrase book and K'ang Hsi's Chinese Dictionary 34. They studied the gospels of John and Mark written in Chinese, and the words of a few Christian songs translated in Chinese.Unfortunately, the gospels of John and Mark was some of the most difficult Chinese to study.

Their language studies continued with much frustration. Chinese is hard. "Strength is needed from above," Hedvig writes. Dr. Robert Morrison's first co-worker Dr. Milne, who had a talent for languages said, "In order to learn the difficult Chinese language requires men with bodies of bronze, lungs of steal, heads of oak, hands of steal springs, eagle's eyes, apostle's hearts, angel's memories, and Methuselah's length of life."

It was also so discouraging to want to, to long to, preach the gospel to people who have not heard it, but not to be able to speak the language well enough to do so.

K'ang Hsi's Chinese Dictionary 34 had more than 40,000 characters. A missionary could be seized by despair at the start of their language study when opening this dictionary for the first time, but were relieved to find out that about 30,000 characters were obsolete and of the 10,000 remaining, about half were sufficient to learn. The New Testament has some 2,400 different characters.

The 5000 characters were daunting enough. Feelings of despair could start to well up again when the new missionary learned that the Mandarin Chinese had four tones. The tones are very important in Chinese. The word "chu" for example has many meanings. When using the first tone when spoken, it means "pig", but in the third tone "Lord". A mix up in a sermon could be shocking. The new missionaries had to imitate closely the spoken words of their Chinese teachers.

Chinese revered as nobody else it seemed the written word. Pieces of paper with written characters were carefully kept or gathered in small boxes and burnt [as a blessing?]. The ancient written language (wen-li) characterizes the Classics, and mandarin (Kwan-hwa) is the official spoke language. There were also different dialects in the provinces.

Johan Alfred and Hedvig's day began with breakfast followed by Bible reading and prayer in the English language, so as not to forget what they had learned in London. Chinese language study followed immediately after and lasted all day and finishing in the evening with Chinese Bible reading and prayer. On Sunday they attended a Chinese worship service in the morning and afternoon led by Lindberg. The services were usually well attended.

[The Sino-Japanese war continued on through the winter in Korea and Manchuria. Still too far to be of much concern.]

Christmas

Christmas was soon upon them and a one day break from language study. This was their first Christmas away from Sweden. Christmas in Sweden was always a very special event which the Swedes looked forward to during the year. At home in Sweden candles were lit in homes and in churches. Special Christmas decorations were taken out of storage boxes and set in place, a Christmas tree set up and decorated. Special foods and drinks for the Christmas holiday prepared.

Though they could not have a Swedish Christmas in all its outward beauty they tried to make it a "steel fine" Christmas nonetheless. They sang the traditional Swedish melody to the Psalm"Var hälsad sköna morgonstund. "I don't think ever has sounded so 'holiday like' as it did this Christmas evening," wrote Johan Alfred.35 Though their Christmas break from language studies was only one day and one evening long, it was a meaningful event, "Praise be to God! He has made our hearts joyous even in China."

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Footnotes